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It may sound paradoxical, but corporate store architecture today strives to be as individualistic as possible. This is partly due to necessity. Like many booksellers, high-end fashion labels are fending off fierce competition from online retailers. They hope that investing in new, ultra-contemporary stores with a unique identity will wow their customers.


伦敦西巴里特建筑事务所联合创建人之一的西蒙·米切尔的观点是:“如果网络可以赢得价格竞争,那么砖块和砂浆组成的实体店建筑就必须直戳顾客的兴奋点”,他曾经为玛尼品牌设计过多个店铺。“由于人们越来越喜欢网购,零售商们必须在实体店中刻意营造一种品牌体验,”创意零售贸易代理公司 “Echochamber”的执行董事马修·布朗也表示:“当下的实体店应该通过‘热情好客的态度’,‘良好的服务’和‘品牌故事的吸引’,让顾客与品牌建立起更深层次的联系。”

The lower floor of Issey Miyake’s new London flagship store, designed by Tokujin Yoshioka. As evidenced by the store’s raw concrete surfaces, Yoshioka prefers to eschew a traditionally luxurious aesthetic
‘If the Internet can win the price war, bricks and mortar have to win the excitement factor,’ opines Simon Mitchell, co-founder of London-based Sybarite Architects, which has designed many stores for Marni. ‘Retailers now have to make their stores brand experiences, as customers increasingly buy goods online.’ Meanwhile, Matthew Brown, the managing  director of creative retail trade agency Echochamber, says, ‘Shops today are about allowing customers to connect with the brand in deeper ways through hospitality, service, storytelling.’

该商店的特色通过内部陈设加以突出,同样是来自吉冈德仁的设计,由Desalto and Moroso生产。

同时应该让“高端品牌”保持警觉的是,一股日益盛行的被称为“push to posh”的趋势,很多大众平民品牌也开始投资打造高端现代的实体店。如:优衣库在纽约的旗舰店就是由高端零售建筑设计事务所“Wonderwall”打造的。

The store’s individuality is enhanced by its furniture, which was also designed by Yoshioka and is manufactured by Desalto and Moroso
Also keeping high-end retailers on their toes is the growing trend known as ‘push to posh’, in which mass market brands invest in high-end interior design. Uniqlo’s flagship store in New York, for example, was designed by the top-end retail architects of Wonderwall.



For a unifying effect, blue anodized aluminium panels are used on both the ground and lower floors
One retail designer who strongly advocates individuality is Tokujin Yoshioka, who has created the interior of Issey Miyake’s new London flagship store. He may have designed over 150 Issey Miyake stores but he aims to make each one unique, chiefly by responding to context. ‘There’s a trend now for hotels with the same homogeneous luxury design all over the world,’ he says. ‘We need to go to the next step and create spaces where people can enjoy a place’s locality and nationality.’ His design for the new London store utilizes structural elements of the original 1950s building, formerly a bank. He has stripped back columns and walls to expose roughly textured concrete surfaces, juxtaposing them with aluminium panels in a highly singular shade of copper sulphate blue.

上海Neri&Hu”s Camper 实体店的一面墙,以参考旧上海传统巷子的设计手法而闻名。

知名鞋子品牌Camper同样注重塑造实体店的“个性”,邀请了著名日本南度设计工作室和日本坂茂建筑事务所一起打造室内空间。在上海,中国的建筑师事务所Neri&Hu 创造出了一个极具冲击力的旗舰店,整个建筑潜嵌入一个废弃的工业仓库中,这个设计很好地利用了周围环境。用当地的回收木材和灰砖打造的建筑的的确确唤醒了人们心中对传统老上海巷子——“弄堂”的回忆。

One wall of Neri & Hu’s Camper store in Shanghai, featuring references to the city’s traditional alleyways
Shoe brand Camper also sets store by individuality, hiring well-known designers and  architects – from Nendo to Shigeru Ban – to dream up its store interiors. In Shanghai, Chinese architects Neri & Hu have created a striking flagship store, a new building inserted into an old industrial warehouse, whose design was a response to its context. Indeed, made of reclaimed, locally sourced timber frames and grey bricks, it’s intended to evoke a typical Shanghai alleyway called a nongtang.



相反,扎哈·哈迪德为英国知名时尚品牌Neil Barrett设计的时装店则是完全从环境中脱离出来,这些分店有四家在首尔,一家在香港。相同的是,这些店铺同样用高价体现“个性”。事实上哈迪德极具标识度的个人设计语言就代表了店铺的独特美学,其最主要的特点就是如冰川一般的系列展柜。

Inserted into an old warehouse, the new Camper shop is designed as a house within a house, viewed in cross section. The sliced-off ends have the same shade of red as Camper’s logo
Some of Camper’s shoes are idiosyncratically suspended from steel hooks attached to rods — a nod to the way clothes are hung up to dry in Shanghai’s alleyways

Conversely, Zaha Hadid’s boutiques for fashion label Neil Barrett – she has designed four in Seoul and one in Hong Kong – pay no heed to context. Yet they do make a bid for individuality. In fact, Hadid’s highly personal design language is responsible for the shops’ unique aesthetic, the key feature being their glacier-like display systems.



弯曲、错落的展柜成为了Neil Barrett旗舰店内单色系中的焦点。这是由设计师扎哈哈迪德设计的Neil Barrett 首尔、香港旗舰店。


Top and above: Barrett’s boutiques offer an experience that is as much about admiring Hadid’s interiors as it is about appreciating the clothing
A sinuous, fragmented display system is the focal point of Neil Barrett’s monochromatic, Zaha Hadid-designed fashion boutiques in Seoul and Hong Kong

These originated as a single element, which was chopped into sections and then installed in all the shops, giving this group of boutiques a cohesive and individual identity. Overshadowed by Hadid’s gigantic, striking sculptural display units, the clothing on display almost looks like an afterthought.
Like Yoshioka and Neri & Hu’s shop interiors, Hadid’s fulfills the ultimate aim of every retail designer today: to create a memorable space.





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